All about balance: New chef at Cedar Grove adds flavor to guest experience
Published 7:50 am Saturday, October 5, 2024
Since reopening The Inn at Cedar Grove, owners Kendra Reed and Harley Caldwell have breathed new life into one of Vicksburg’s most storied antebellum homes.
Open to the public as a bed and breakfast, the Inn at Cedar Grove also offers locals and visitors a place to gather and visit while enjoying a cocktail at the Chandelier Lounge. Most recently, a chef was hired and the restaurant revived.
“We have recently found a fabulous chef and his name is Chris Robinson,” Reed said. “He is from Monroe and trained down in New Orleans and he has created a cuisine that is a great mix of southern favorites with some New Orleans influence.”
And since moving to Vicksburg, Robinson has also expanded his culinary skills by infusing some of the River City’s favorite recipes into the menu – dishes like his tuzzi-stuffed mushrooms, which was inspired by the Junior Auxiliary of Vicksburg “Ambrosia” cookbook’s tuzzi dip.
Robinson said, for him, coming up with a new recipe is just like any other artistic process.
“I always kind of compare it to making music,” he said. “It’s all about balancing everything out. Say if you are writing a song, you don’t have all the parts in the low base register. It would be muddy and impossible to understand. But when you add in notes from the higher range, it becomes richer. So, like the music, (balancing) gives cohesiveness to the dish.”
That balance is evident in his blackened catfish fillet, which is served with a roasted tomato beurre blanc and black-eyed pea succotash.
Robinson said he has been a fan of cooking since he was young.
“Ever since I was old enough to stand in front of the kitchen counter,” he said. “My grandmother had me help her make chicken and dumplings and your typical country food. And I watched the Louisiana Public Broadcasting. There was a chef named John Folse and I just became a real big fan of his.”
While working in New Orleans, he said the executive chef at the Sazerac House also served as one of his mentors.
Reed said bringing back the restaurant was “kind of a necessity” for their bed and breakfast guests.
“Our hotel guests, a lot of times, they’ve just been traveling all day and they’re exhausted,” she said. Therefore, on the first night of their arrival, Reed said they want to just relax before they began touring the city.
“And so, we felt that there was a demand and a need to serve them as well, as we’ve got a lot of locals that come and have been enjoying the bar and they would like something to eat,” she said.
Both Robinson and Reed said the restaurant community in Vicksburg has been very helpful in their endeavor.
“I have been very lucky and blessed to have Sally Bullard (co-owner of Main Street Market) come in on more than one occasion,” Reed said. “She has walked us through how to set things up and how to work with my staff. Jay Parmigiani (chef at 10 South Rooftop Bar and Grill) has been a tremendous influence in just giving me suggestions and ideas and Perry Boyd (owner of Gumbo Pot) taught me a lot of things that I needed to know.”
The Inn at Cedar Grove is open Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 9 p.m. Reservations are suggested.
In addition to the blackened catfish fillet, entrées include chicken étouffée, shrimp and andouille fettuccine, roasted pork tenderloin and filet mignon.
The menu also has several appetizers, including the tuzzi-stuffed mushroom, salads, desserts and a kid’s menu. There are also signature cocktails, along with wine and beer offerings.