Burger lovers want more than just fries with that
Published 11:51 am Tuesday, March 10, 2015
Buried a few lines deep in an account of why global sales are down for McDonald’s is part of the reason I only eat “chainburgers” out of sheer expediency.
A report Monday said sales at the world’s most ubiquitous burger chain had dropped 4 percent in the U.S. in February. The Associated Press referred to statements Monday by the company that could have been narrated by Captain Obvious from the hotel commercials.
“Consumer needs and preferences have changed,” the company said. The goal is to be a “modern, progressive burger company.” That’s where the image of burgers coming off conveyor belts came to mind. The concept of a “burger company” sounds like assembly-line food, which my evolving palate doesn’t find too appetizing. There’s another concept that people are finding tastier.
Used to be, the concept of “gourmet” fare had nothing to do with burgers, chicken or any of that common-folk stuff. Gourmet chefs and gourmet food had do with those lobster tails, caviar clumps and pate’ slivers associated with the well-to-do. It was a buzzword for “expensive”. Now, as people find ways to either eat better by avoiding processed foods or simply save money by spending some elbow grease learning how to cook, the word has found itself into burgers, that reddest, whitest and bluest of culinary ideas. (Hamburgers have their roots in Germany, by the way, and briefly underwent a name change to “liberty sandwich” in World War I to support U.S. involvement in the trenches).
These days, family restaurants and greasy spoons alike sell their burgers as “hand-cut” and with whichever echelon of the government’s meat categories applies best to the product. Shows on the Food Network that scintillate your senses (and perhaps annoy you because you’re on the wrong side of the camera to indulge) feature burgers infused with everything from smoked sausage to bone marrow. Bottom lines do vary between a small dive and fine dining establishment, obviously, but the price of beef and other commodities is what it is. Thus, I’d surely pay the extra buck or two for something that tastes fresh and not dry. That price difference on large burgers used to be more; it’s not anymore, if you’ve been to any of the three best-known fast-food brands recently.
One change reported to be coming soon for McDonald’s customers in the U.S. is a build-a-burger option. It’s to customize their orders, executives say. That drew a grin on my part, as I wrote a business story not long ago about a family-run burger joint in Vicksburg that has the same concept — with much fresher meat and a better taste, of course.
As with craft beer, which pulled the stubborn domestic breweries you’ve seen on TV for years into the 21st century, the domestic fast food you’ve seen in the same commercial break for years needs a similar shakeup. Whether people are cutting calories or craving exotic ingredients, it’s clear both sets of consumers are finding options other than the golden arches.
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Danny Barrett Jr. is a reporter and can be reached by email at danny.barrett@vicksburgpost.com or by phone at 601-636-4545.